Tuesday, July 5, 2011

July 5: visiting the past

Over in America, it's my birthday! It's about 5 p.m. right now, and I can finally charge my laptop. Hooray!

Man, it's only been a day or two, but I feel like my family and I have done so much since returning to Vietnam.

Mom woke us up in the morning, claiming it was 8 and that we were long overdue for breakfast! In reality, it was 6:30, but that lying witch wanted us to get up early! :) Well, it was alright; I was already awake at the time and for an hour, I was listening to the sound of busyness that was just outside my window. The roar of motorcycles cruising by and the honks of impatient vehicle drivers as they tried to navigate through a busy narrow alley in the morning had rudely awoken me

(I recorded the sound of the streets for you to hear, but it won't upload...check back later)

I later found out that my sister and Elizabeth had done the same thing!

It felt...glorious to wake up and walk out into the sunbathed front porch of my mom's childhood home. With the light streaming through the leaves of towering coconut trees and the aroma of authentic food from street vendors, I felt so alive--even though it was still so early.

We had fresh eggs and warm loaves of bread and cups of strong Vietnamese coffee. After, instead of the 'typical' milk and orange juice drinks, we picked some coconuts off our tree and drank from them. My mom, craving pieces of her childhood memory, bought a bowl of bún sợi to for about 18,000 dong--less than a dollar! Now we're going to have some for tomorrow's breakfast.

The reason for waking up so early: my dad wanted to visit the grave site of his mother--my grandmother--who passed away last year. He was there to see her burial, but wanted to bring the family back to pay respects. We took a taxi from Nha Trang to the rural side of the town. It's astonishing; taxi drivers are so talented because they don't use addresses as their destinations--they just need a certain landmark. For example, my mom's house does not have an exact address, but the driver found it by the distinct coconut tree that's just outside the house.

My parents' memories are astounding! After ten years and ever-changing scenery, they are still able to find my relatives' homes spread around town. We dropped by a cafe owned by my dad's distant cousins and chatted for awhile. They ask the typical things--where's the oldest son? How's Dan doing? It's the typical Vietnamese thing to ask, as the oldest of the family, and especially if the oldest is male, is considered the most important. Then they are just so shocked to see my sister, and they spend the rest of the time remarking that she's 'so tall' for a Vietnamese girl. Next, they'd ask about Elizabeth and--that poor girl--has to just sit around and smile as something like Gibberish flows through one ear and out the other! Before they can even get to me, it's time to go! Luckily for me though, because I'm really getting tired of saying: "Yes, I am a sophomore in college...no, not in high school...yep, I know I still look like I'm 15...majoring in journalism, uh huh, yes I can speak and understand Vietnamese...what language have I been speaking for the last fucking 20 minutes?"

( The last bit I usually keep to myself.)

Yet, custom says I must be nice about everything, so I just nod and smile.

To get to my grandma's burial site we had to venture through the woods, past vast rice fields, dodge bushes full of torn and find the area for tombstones nestled at the foot of rocky hills.

When we arrived, I saw something that was familiar, yet not. Since arriving in Vietnam, Elizabeth has been noting a lot of swastika-like signs on numerous buildings. That puzzled me because I don't think Germany had ever touched the country; so, I did a bit of research and  found that the swastika here is not a nod to the anti-Semitic behavior of the Nazis. Here is the symbol used during the German regime:

http://www.gamersdailynews.com/userfiles/swastika.png

The ones we have been seeing look like this:

This is the symbol seen in religions like Hinduism and Buddhism and generally means something close to peace. I've seen this on many temples and tombstones. It's just sad that the Nazis had to use a symbol so close to something has the opposite meaning...

For the rest of the day, we literally walked around everywhere and stopped by so many people's houses that some faces are beginning to blur in my mind. We had all types of fruits and food offered by our awesome hosts, so it wasn't like we were suffering, but we still had jetlag. Right now my eyes are drooping, and my thoughts are being incoherent, so I'll just post these pictures, then I'll sign off :)

On our way to the grave site. Rice fields that stretch across the land

Dad paying his respects...

Cutting into a fresh Durian...smelly...

Fresh peppers from backyard

One of our relatives' houses.
 Until next time :)

Monday, July 4, 2011

July 4th-Arrival

I can't quite begin to express my feelings about being back in Vietnam.

It was a tiring journey from Hartford, Conn. to Chicago to Tokyo, but I felt like the last bit of the trip (from Tokyo to Vietnam) was excruciatingly so. We took a van from Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) to Nha Trang, so the time in general was eight hours. When we landed, we met the heat--the familiar, smothering and sweaty temperature of Vietnam. We were the ones dying while the natives acted like the weather was 50 degrees! And once again, as expected, I felt surrounded by the familiar and the foreign. The language--mixes of beautiful tones and dialects--sounded like home, but then I saw the faces of people who were speaking it, and I was instantly brought back to reality. I knew that if I talked, I would be recognized as a foreigner. People can sense it; even if you speak the language, doesn't mean you are a native, exactly. I felt like I didn't belong then. I know I have to get over this invisible barrier if I wish to truly embrace my family's culture and--most resolutely--my culture.

(At this point of the trip, I was writing down my thoughts in a notebook)

Right now, we are on the roads. I wouldn't exactly say highways because the ones in America seem isolated so that all you can really see are trees and highway signs. The 'highways' here are consider main roads that connect one small town to larger cities. We started the ride at midnight in Vietnam time and at this point had just passed five hours. Even at one in the morning people were out and about, braving the dark in order to earn some money selling fruit and a hodgepodge of items. We had stopped at a fruit market, and it was disgustingly dirty; the floor was littered with scraps of previous fruits and the air reeked of urine--maybe because of the open bathrooms nearby.

It wasn't the exact environment that I thought Elizabeth would be exposed to first, but she seemed fine after she had a taste of the fruits being sold! Everything was so delicious. The three of us were trying to decide how to explain the taste of fruits like mangosteen, but we couldn't compare it to anything else. That's another struggle of this blog for me because I want whatever readers to be able to understand the things we see!

Our driver is the older brother of one of our family friends and he drives like a maniac--but in a good way (?) He's fast with his driving, but still careful not to hit other cars or pedestrians. Every time we pass a motorcycle, he'd honk to let them know.

I couldn't sleep at all because I was too mystified by the culture of Vietnam that is apparent even at night. I remember sitting in my corner of the car, glancing at my mom's face as she tries to recognize a bit of land here and there, but she can't. So much has changed. I was constantly hit with a sense of anxiousness. Sometimes, we'd pass by small villages that are just so poor and in those moments, I feel lucky with the circumstances that my family lives in. Some of the schools we saw were shambles of what they used to be. Extravagant homes would be seen, but its grandeur decor completely overshadowed by the abundance of shacks that sit in front.

Sun rising soon...







The landscape of Vietnam is evidently diverse and beautiful. I never realized it before. One moment, you can see vast green spaces of blooming rice fields and water that is the deepest blue you've ever seen. The next, you can see a desert with cacti and strangely beautiful but out-of-place flowers. Coconut trees, banana trees and dragon fruit trees are not absent, let me tell you.
Coconut trees!

Marking the country's move for industrialization, many green landscapes are being turned into commercial properties, like salt factories and automobile dealerships. I spotted a few windmills, but only one seemed to be turning. Rice fields are getting destroyed, so that upscale resorts can be put into place.

Cool things: Coconut trees are as tall as three-story buildings. Random 'resting' places where people can literally stop and chill in a hammock hanging between two coconut trees. Cheap but delicious food; my mom bought pounds of mangosteen and the total was equivalent to less than a US dollar. To buy it in the US, it's like ten dollars per pound.
Not-so-cool things: Bathrooms are disgusting, so I'm worried about the sanitary conditions. Should I embrace the conditions in order to accept the culture? I don't know if my immune system and gag reflexes can take it. Roads are horrendous; traffic is perilous. As I am writing this, the van had just regained balance after almost falling over; the driver successfully avoided a large truck whose driver seems to be completely blind...

(We have arrived in Nha Trang, but I will post more about the house soon)

Saturday, July 2, 2011

i'm on the move

It is now 6:21. Woke up at 5:30 to get ready. Some Dunkin' Donuts. 7:00 is departure. Flight is at 10:45. Lehgo.

Friday, July 1, 2011

song to put me in the right mood

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/6/6a/Armageddon_-_The_Album_%28CD_Cover%29.jpg
For sleeping on the airplane:
"Poison and Wine" by The Civil Wars
"My Heart Will Go On" by Celine Dion
"Truly, Madly, Deeply" by Savage Garden
"Passage into Midnight" by Omar Akram
"Gravity" by Sara Bareilles
"I Don't Want to Miss a Thing" by Aerosmith 
(My parents used to play this and Celine Dion's song and my brother, sister, and I would fall right asleep!)

 
 For when I get restless:
 "New Drug" by Thousand Foot Krutch
"Sick" by Adelitas Way
"Last Resort" by Papa Roach
"Given Up" by Linkin Park
"Fire It Up" by Thousand Foot Krutch




For the beach:
 "You and I" by Ingrid Michaelson
"Lazy Song" by Bruno Mars
"Come Get Some" by Rooster
"All the Pretty Girls" by Fun
"Keep Your Head Up" Andy Grammer
(And I realize now that I don't have many 'beachy'/happy songs...)